The Trouble With Nipples

The tank top is a lovely apple green. I tried it on with a long matching over shirt, did my usual pantomime of chalk board writing to see if it was comfortable, scrutinized it to see if the over shirt hung in such a way as to avoid showing the contours of my nipples, visible through the tank top, was satisfied, and left the store.
I put it on one morning, paired with some new light grey jeans, and wore it to work. I got several compliments on the color and also a few glances that made me self-conscious. I ignored them as best I could. I did not try to wear the shirt again for a while. Some weeks later I put it on again. I stepped into the living room to ask my sweetheart Will what he thought. I turned this way and that, put my hands on my hips, brushing the overshirt aside as I do in class sometimes, took a few turns, and waited for his reaction: "It's a bit nipply." I took it off. I have not worn it to work since.
I don't want to wear my nipples to work. I don't want to deal with people looking, looking away, and looking back. I don't want to worry about whether they think I am a hippie or a slut. I wouldn't care if they thought the former but I would be afraid that if they thought the latter they would think it in the erotophobic, judgmental, shaming kind of way that I do so much to resist.
Several years ago I gave up on wearing bras. This was not a political move, at least not initially. It was about my own physical comfort. I have never found a bra that fits well, looks good under clothes, and feels comfortable for more than a couple hours. Since I have never been physically uncomfortable without a bra, I decided to forego them. At first I only went without on the weekends. It seemed too risky to go without at work. Then eventually I decided to go without there, as well. It was then that I encountered my nipple dilemma. I had always worn bras that had a bit of padding, and even my apparently steely nipples never showed underneath them. Without a bra, every top presents a challenge. Dark colors and patterns are the easiest. I often wear vests, jackets, or over shirts for extra coverage. Sometimes, as with my apple green combination, even an over shirt doesn't seem like enough. (I have a similar conflict with a light tan t-shirt and matching vest combination.)
I know I am not the only female-bodied person who feels this way because I've discovered lines of "solutions" products specifically marketed to help hide nipples. Her Look sells two: Low Beams, which are disposable nipple covers made of a light material akin to bandage tape, and Top Hats, which are reusable silicone discs. Sense Lingerie sells Bra Disks for shielding your nipples even while wearing a bra, along with a whole line of reusable or disposable nipple concealers. You can even purchase a sampler pack of their five most popular products. Then there are the noncommercial forums like Going Braless, which offers excellent resources, social networking, and discussion for women who are considering, experimenting, or committed to bra freedom. Brafree.org, run by Dr. Elizabeth Vaughan devotes an entire FAQ section to nipples in the workplace.
It would seem like no women have nipples unless they are modeling wet t-shirts or being pilloried for failing Wardrobe 101. Janet Jackson's "wardrobe malfunction" demonstrated that even the briefest glimpse of a nipple during a "family entertainment hour" is cause for uproar, never mind the sexually predatory nature of the dance routine she was doing, or the violent competition of the football game during which half-time show her performance occured. (Of course there is a Wikipedia entry for that!)
Even Barbie, the ultimate visual model of femininity, has no nipples. No wonder she was comfortable in so many different occupations! It would seem that Barbie was a compromise in plastic, since she wasn't intended to be left naked anyway. (You knew that, right? You didn't do naughty things with your Barbies, did you?)
In all seriousness, I would like to resolve my own internal conflict about being nipply at work. The issues are as much in my own mind as they are in workplace culture. It took me a while to overcome my anxiety about walking in the park braless but now I'm perfectly comfortable meeting the eyes of the occasional leering men or scornful women who stare when I pass. If they attribute my bralessness or my visible nipple contours to some strategic - or uncontrollable - sexual action, then so be it. But that thought troubles me at work. I don't want to contend with leering students who are likely to look, judge, and never to ask the question that would allow for a thoughtful discussion of the sexualizing of women's breasts - nipples particularly - and the constraints on women in the workplace. Likewise I do not want to contend with colleagues who, though equal or superior in power, would likely whisper to one another rather than creating space for such discussion.
This is not a trivial concern. Via the treasure chest that is Gloria Brame's blog I learned that just early this month a Public Defender in Florida was kept from seeing her client because her bralessness was considered by a prison guard to be in violation of a policy that prohibits dress that is "provocative or enticing." Of course the irony in the story is that, according to the AOL News story I read about her situation, her bralessness was a function of the prison's metal detector having picked up her underwire bra on her first atttempt to enter the facility. I suppose the message is that bras are both dangerous and essential.
Some mornings I wake up feeling defiant, thinking "Fuck it. Why am I capitulating to some arbitrary notion that nipples are somehow indecent? Why am I reinforcing that absurdity with my own actions?" After all, I remind myself, if nipples are about anything at all, they are about sustaining life - feeding infants - not about entertaining men or displaying sexual desire. And then I get dressed. And so far I have always been careful to conceal my nipple contours as well as I can. I will, I am sure, come to a point where I feel as comfortable at work as I do in the park. In the mean time I will enjoy such settings as are available where nipples are seen as ordinary parts of the body, to be decorated, displayed, or ignored as their owner sees fit.
Artwork includes
"Nipple Tape" by Diana Blackwell on Flickr, licensed under a Creative Commons 2.0 Generic Attribution License.
Mermaid Parade 2010 photo by WIll Van Dorp (Parrotlect on Flickr). Used with permission.






The internalisation of social controls
This is a small part of a much larger issue in terms of how we see ourselves, and construct how others might see us, and how we adapt our behaviour to avoid conflict and being considered 'other'. It would be easy to dismiss the concerns raised here by saying entities have either formal dress codes or informal accepted norms of behaviour which we implicitly buy into in order to be considered part of that entity and be compensated in terms of security, remuneration and status, an implicit trade off.
However a broader look at how social controls are gendered and how women in particular have been controlled through dress and behaviour codes suggests there is more to the example discussed here. Accepted norms have changed quite drastically over the last century but are still restrictive. Place this in the larger context about debates regarding dress within specific cultural and religious groups to appreciate some of the inconsistencies around Western society's expectations of women.
Self censorship has been considered more effective than external controls, and our fear of 'offence' and the constructs of the harm of offence do far more to enforce conformity than more formal rules. It is our fear of being judged, a judgement perhaps restricted to a small minority, that keeps us in line and discourages adventurousness, exploration and self fulfillment. Inthe current context it is likely to be the fear of judgement of males that is most effective in altering women's self image and self esteem, entrenching the Myth of Eve around body shame, even if there is a blatant double standard. Or as has been stated - why should the alleged inability of the male to control their urges force women to hide? These arguments have arisen many times over history and women have at various times been told that hair, forearms, shoulders, ankles and knees can engender unbridled lust in males and that for their own safety they must conceal all these, but they have progressively appeared without widespread evidence of moral decay and increased violence against women. Initself this invites a reductio ad absurbum extrapolation. Although largely discredited now, a common defence in rape cases was that women 'asked for it' by contravening dress norms and sent signals inviting violation of their persons.
Just a brief review of recent media reports around the issues Elizabeth raises reveal the same moral panics, the same fears of the powers of a woman's body (weapons of mass destruction), and the same demands for the suppression of women's creativity and self expression. While social mores, as opposed to ethical morality are geographical, cultural and temporal and will undoubtedly change, it has usually required the courage of a few, often at the price of personal sacrifice, to bring about those changes.
Suzanne Lenglen (1899-1938) smashing dress taboos by baring her arms in the 1920s, for which she was assaulted
Further reading
Game, sex and match. Times June 25 2007
Self-censorship and the approval of women
Michael, it is wonderful to see you back around SITPS! (I know, I know, I've been MIA on and off, myself.)
You wrote, very accurately:
Exactly so. In my own case I recognize clearly the ways that I self-censor in order to avoid negative judgement. I use other examples of that same principle when I teach my Intro to Sociology students about deviance and social control. They readily recognize that it is generally their few acquaintances who "don't care about what anybody thinks" who flaunt the rules routinely while the rest of them hide their deviance as much as they can.
Where I disagree, I think, at least in my own situation, is here:
In thinking about my own reactions to people at work I am actually more attuned to the disapproval of other women (or my perception of their disapproval). Perhaps this is because I have become accustomed to challenging men's views of women while I want to feel solidarity with other women themselves. Perhaps it is because it is those other women who are, either happily or unhappily, upholding the standards of propriety that I am challenging.
One of the questions my Sociology of Gender students and I discuss with some frequency is whether, when it comes to enforcing standards of femininity, women do more than men do to limit other women's gender and sexual expression. They are always interesting discussions and I tend not to insert my own experience into the conversation. Perhaps this is a story I should share with them.
...because public space really matters!
Elizabeth
Patriarchy, internalisation and the maintenance of hegemony
I was responding to your comments about "leering men" as an expression of male gaze.
The last time I was asked about this I replied:
Amar Wahab writing in the Caribbean Review of Gender Studies describes Indian women in the Caribbean in Colonial times (1):
Michèle Alexandre also makes this observation about how feminist scholars have "internalised patriarchal classifications of women’s bodies." (2) And perhaps just as cogently she refers to the work of Elizabeth Iglesias:
That is that women must reclaim the ability to decide how they wish to express themselves rather than conform to patriarchal construction that retains privilege by the imposition of a binary narrative.
She continues:
1. Wahab A. Race, Gender, and Visuality: Regulating Indian Women Subjects in the Colonial Caribbean CRGS November 2008 Issue 2
2. Alexandre M. Dancehalls, Masquerades, Body Protest and the Law: The Female Body as a Redemptive Tool Against Trinidad and Tobago’s Gender-biased Laws CRGS April 2007 Issue 1
3. Iglesias E. Rape, Race and Representation: The Power of Discourse, Discourses of
Power, and the Reconstruction of Heterosexuality, 49 VAND. L. REV. 868, 886, 902 (1996)
And, like, stuff
I was attending various events for GLBTQ Pride week in my area. I noticed that there were a small but significant number of women who were topfree except for tape over the nipples. (I also noticed there were a small but significant women who had fake mustaches, but that's not relevant here.) I saw only one who didn't bother with the tape. A possible bit of irony is that the tape tends to draw more attention to the breasts and their supposed "forbidden nature" than going entirely bare-chested.
Nipples generally don't show very much through men's clothes, probably in part because they're smaller and shirts tend to be a bit loose or slack in that part of the chest. Whereas with women, they're bigger and shirts are often tighter in that region due to the protrusion of the breasts. Add in the fact that women have mostly worn bras for the past 150 years, and tend to "compensate" when they don't - most people aren't used to seeing those two small fabric bumps, so it looks odd and out of place. Like the nipple tape, it draws attention to that region which you would not be staring at if you weren't thinking about sex, which causes you to uproductively start thinking about sex (if you're a hetero male, anyway) to compensate. Or if female, unproductively obsess in a catty jealous manner. And other weird psychobabble effects which probably aren't actually true but people will spout off as common wisdom anyway.
nipples are nipples
The double standard between lactating nipples and the less useful non lactating nipples on men is annoying at best and a blow to freedom for half the population.
Seriously men can go topless in the street and no-one cares, a woman goes topless and the crowd stops and reacts with either approval or disapproval as if it's their place to object or approve.
The human form can be attractive, repulsive or uninteresting but the issue here is two tags of flesh surrounded by darker skin. The nipple. what is so dangerous about the potentially lactating nipple?
Is it disease? the health department regulates lactating nipples in food service because of the potential for ... milk? Seriously. noses are a greater danger for bodily fluid that carry disease. What is it that milk carries again? Oh antibodies, fat and protein.
Beaches are topless or not but only in regards to potentially lactating nipples. Men once more can bare their chests with no restriction.
It can't be out of respect for motherhood as even breastfeeding is mostly deigned appropriate if out of sight.
What drives Americans to so strongly disapprove of or salaciously approve of nipple displays?
I like nipples, I like some nipples more than others, but the nipples that I see are other people's nipples, so if I like them or not I have no place judging the people attached to those nipples any more than if I like or dislike a nose.
So Elizabeth, wear your apple green tank top with pride, and if you don't wear it at work, well it's their loss. And if you do wear it at work then the reactions of the people around you give you the opportunity to push back at the social norms and tell the leering or negative judgement oriented folks to stuff it.
high beams
The power of the nipple. As you mentioned Janet Jackson's NippleGate-- it launched an FCC resurgence of undefined media fines for almost any possible sexual theme for years afterwards, making a hard time for most of us who had previously talked sex on the radio .
As a small breasted woman, with little need for "support", my very evident nipples, have nonetheless caused me much of the distress you mention, Elizabeth. I've chosen to be braless 99% of my life for the past 30 years. I love my nipples, admittedly am even egotistically proud of their shape sometimes, and am most pleased at how well they served during two years of breast feeding. But I go braless not because I can "expose" the power of my nipples, but because of the discomfort from the bras (straps falling and cups rising) and the subliminally false-advertizing that bras give of uplifted shape and augmented looking breast size.Yet, I always worry about the degree of respect for those who innocently have to view my bralessness. Most especially, teen boys, and additionally I worry if I am a poor role model for young girls i.e.: leading them astray from expected norms. Really, those things actually go through my check list of " is my choice a responsible one?" An erect nipple even under a loose fitting shirt, feels like what I assume a man must worry about when his penis erects visibly under his pants. But the nipple ( I remember the term "headlights" in high school) and will definitely check out Low Beams) is more up front and center, so to speak. Are evident nipples an immodest in -your- face affront to others? While our very strange society welcomes the tease of the upper breast cleavage everywhere, the curve of an under- breast ( as in a crop top) and most especially the nipple are somehow more blatantly sexual. Presumably, the underside of a braless breast entices symbolic "cupping" or makes the viewer acknowledge they are peeking from under. And the nipple's color contrast, and ability to soften and point ,make them actionable, rather than passive. One assumes that the still controversial topic of public breast feeding is additionally fueled by reason that fluids actually come out of the nipples, too, should one flash out of a baby's mouth. When I stripped in NJ a few decades ago at an all nude club, the law stated we had to cover our nipples, if alcohol was served. Legs could be straddled wide open, subject to a certain number of inches from a viewer's face--or stretched out arm--but the clubs' management "solved" the forbidden revelation of nipples, by having us each camouflage them with a layer of painted on flesh- toned latex. But I need to address my own hypocrisies as much as society's. When a dress requires a more proportioned top look, I'll wear a bra. Likewise, when my pointed nipples themselves make a top look ill-fitted, a bra wins out again for my self-appeal to look good. Years ago, when a handsome new lover took off his shirt, revealing somewhat puffy, feminine nipples, I ended the night quickly. (Thankfully, my definition of sex and gender has greatly matured since then.) But case to point, why was it his pronounced nipples, in an otherwise "standardly" gorgeous male specimen that frightened my sense of desiring him? It was the aspect of his femininity overpowering my own sense of nipplehood. Tit for tat. And so, this summer, like any other, I go braless-- unquestionably so, for any fun event at night; a preview analysis in the mirror under various lights for about-the-town-errands attire; and either donning a bra or wearing a fabric of thicker material and/or with a nipple covering pattern for all else. Now, when to wear panties or not?reclaiming the nipple
So how can we ever transform the perception of the nipple if women like you don't wear them proudly? If it weren't so late and I weren't a little tired, I might wax Butlerian about performativity and iteration.
Years ago, when I was in my
Years ago, when I was in my mid to late thirties, I was teaching a linguistics class in which the same two women sat in the center of the class directly in front of me. One day, I walked into the room wearing a form-fitting pullover shirt underneath a sports jacket. The classroom was very warm and so, before I started to teach, I took the jacket off. At the same as I did that, the two women started whispering and giggling to each other. We were an informal group and often chatted for a few minutes before I began the day’s lesson, and so I asked them if they could share what was so funny. “Oh, it’s nothing, nothing,” one of them said.
I began to write on the board the beginnings of what we would be covering that day, and when I turned around to look at the notes on my desk, the women started giggling again, giving each other significant looks, and when I looked in their direction, they started laughing outright, though because they were trying to suppress the laugher, the were actually sputtering quite noisily more than they were actually laughing.
I suggested that it might be better for them to step outside and get their giggles out than for them to continue disrupting the class. I was not angry when I said this, but they looked chastened, and then one of them said, “I’m sorry. It’s just that your nipples are erect,” and at that, of course, the whole class broke out in uncomfortable laughter, probably including me, since I have no memory of how I responded; even now, I am not sure precisely how I would respond--though I think I am now older enough than my students that such a thing would probably never happen.
That Elizabeth’s post should remind of this story is not surprising, though I would never argue that my experience is at all parallel to hers. Still, it is interesting to think about the gender reversal in my story and what it reveals. For example, while I can (of course) easily imagine male students giggling and ogling a female professor whose nipples were visible through her shirt, I find it hard to imagine those same students admitting that this is what they were doing, especially in front of the entire class, unless they were using the admission in some way to challenge the professor’s authority, to bring her down a notch, so to speak--which the women in my class were not trying to do to me.
There is in here an interesting knot about sexual boundaries and how they are defined both for and by men and women in public spaces that is worth tugging at.
Another example of nipples-as-problematic
Here's a story by Chris Matyszczyk about jeweler Victoria Buckley's Facebook fan page.
http://news.cnet.com/8301-17852_3-20010205-71.html
The page was initially censored by Facebook after some complaints about a photo which showed a doll (created by artist Marina Bychova) helping to display Buckley's jewelry. The doll was naked, and yes, with nipples.
Buckley points out that pages displaying Michelangelo's David are apparently above criticism despite their showing the statue's sculpted penis.
According to the article, Facebook eventually apologized and encouraged Buckley to repost the photo. I continue to wonder whether complaints are ever made about the David images, and if they are whether Facebook takes those complaints as seriously as they apparently take complaints about nipples.
...because public space really matters!
Elizabeth
It's not that they're not
It's not that they're not proud of their nipples. They are. It's about comfortability. Some women are comfortable not wearing any bra. You wouldn't understand. Well, at least that's what my wife always tells me. I don't understand anything about being a woman.
Sunny Side Up & Other Kooky (Offensive?) Terms for Exposed Nips
I had a boyfriend who had a term for when my perked nipples became visible through a tee shirt. He'd say I was, "Smuggling raisins." Though I'd never heard this term before, it's prosaic enough -- along the lines of "camel toe." However, whenever he'd point out that I was "Smuggling raisins," he'd do so with a sly, boyish grin like he was letting me know I was walking around with a milk moustache without knowing it. But there was another layer to this observation/commentary -- it felt like a minor jab at me for exposing a shade of my sexual self to the world. In a monogamous relationship like ours was, we had an agreement to share our sexual selves exclusively with one another. But I wonder, if a perked nipple signals a shade of sexuality, is total exclusivity a reasonable expectation for people who practice monogamy? Certainly there's a big difference between a perked nipple and a one-night-stand. But are we so linear in our thinking about sex and relationships that we can't make a full separation between two such different circumstances?
Of course there's also the biological reality that a perked nipple isn't always the result of sexual arousal. Temperature, friction, a gust of wind might all be responsible for a "perk up." And I'm told this can happen to men's penises as well. (The term for this, thank you same BF, is NRB: no reason boner). So, Elizabeth, the next time you wear your green tank top, bear in mind there might be something going down (ahem, up, rather) in the trousers of your onlookers. But do you really care? Didn't think so.
Monogamy and nipples
Jill, thanks for the "smuggling raisins" image. (Or more properly, thanks to your ex boyfriend). For some reason I find it amusing. It conjures up a childlike silliness that makes me smile.
When I began reading your story I thought it was going somewhere different. I imagined your boyfriend was telling you with that sly boyish grin as if to say "we're sharing a secret and letting the world get a little peek at it" - so that the shared assumption was that the world could see a bit of the sexual connection shared between you - a kind of exhibitionistic monogamy, perhaps. Seems the reality was quite the opposite. Interesting, all the embedded assumptions that weave through our intimate relationships as well as through our interactions with strangers. There is no social order without sets of shared assumptions, but I wonder how shared some of them really are.
...because public space really matters!
Elizabeth
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